It was time for a vacation, but of course the visa issue presented itself so we searched for countries Egyptians can visit without going through the visa hassle. To our surprise, a lot of options came up but we settled on Zanzibar in East Africa. Instant excitement took over as my husband and I booked our plane tickets, the accommodation for the first four nights and left the remaining three open to when we’re actually there.

So here’s a guide to that very charming, very off-putting (at times), historically complicated, architecturally stunning, and beautifully raw Zanzibar.

Pre-trip Essential

Plane Tickets and Route

We booked straight through Ethiopian Airlines for better prices (LE 4,886 per ticket last July).

The route: Cairo – Adis Ababa – Tanzania – Zanzibar (took off at 2:15 am and arrived to Zanzibar at around 3pm)

Zanzibar Airport (or so it’s called)

It’s more of a run-down spacious room, but we weren’t bothered by the scattered mess; only whether our suitcase made it.  After checking our passports and yellow fever shots, we were directed to where we can buy our visas, which cost $50 each. It was quite an organized and straightforward process, really.

The baggage claim was an area where workers rushed in carrying suitcases on their shoulders and piling them all up on each other on a long bench. As we squeezed ourselves in the crowd we spotted our pink suitcase (my choice to always be easily found) laying there under three other suitcases.

Destination One: Jambiani, Southeast coast

Jambiani is a village on the island of Unguja in Zanzibar and it was by far, the most enjoyable part of our trip.

Where to stay

Definitely, the Art Hotel – clean, comfortable, cozy, homey, quiet, blissful, laid back, and simply ideal for your Jambiani visit. We got a special rate through their “friend hotel” The Coral Rock and stayed at $99 per night, including breakfast, which we used to have at The Coral Rock (a one minute walk from Art Hotel).

The Art Hotel has only four rooms, each named after a local artist whose paintings would be showcased in the room; we were staying in room Lilanga for three amazing nights. The hotel is run by a Tanzanian family who make you feel absolutely at home.

 

Where and what to eat

We had all our meals at the Coral Rock hotel, which could also be another accommodation option. The food was the best we’ve had throughout our whole visit; full of flavor and cooked to perfection.

We’d recommend trying:

• Breakfast: The dutch breakfast (poached egg with cheese and mustard)
• The grilled chicken
• Fish sashimi
• Calamari salad with avocado and mango
• Fish versus octopus
• Sides: grilled vegetables and French fries

What to do

When the tide was too low, we would spend a portion of the morning in Coral Rock’s infinity pool with a surreal view.

Our hotel’s pool offered peace and quiet amidst the beautiful greenery 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Destination Two: Kendwa Beach, North

We spent just one night there and decided to check out first thing in the morning. Don’t expect much pictures or great reviews in this section of the feature so let’s move on:

The general feel: It pretty much felt like a commercial resort that simply doesn’t make much sense to exist there. We’d walk into different bars and restaurants and find ourselves looking at menus offering overpriced pasta and pizza options. Instead of being exposed to and immersed in their rich culture, we’d get hit by a David Grey song followed by Enrique Iglesias and what not. The food is bland, the people dry and unwelcoming, the vendors by the beach hover over your head as you try to relax.

The accommodation: We stayed at Kendwa Sunset Beach Hotel and got no value for money, off-putting room cleanliness with a persistent scent of pesticides, and basically no fun at all.

The evenings: That was the only fun we had there; we walked by the beach and spotted the perfect place to watch the sunset: the bar at the Eden Village hotel. We spent hours there having yummy cocktails and chatting as we sat on the very funky neon-lit chairs (and didn’t take any pictures because we got too caught up in the drunken conversations).

Destination Three, Stone Town, Zanzibar City

Let me start by saying that this place is a must-do! One full day is more than enough, however.

What to do

The Spice Tour. Before we got to Stone Town, we stopped for the infamous spice tour on the way from Kendwa (wherever you are in Zanzibar, it would usually take no more than two hours to go from one end to the other, by taxi).

We were hesitant about the spice tour but decided to go for it: And we loved every bit of it! We were greeted by Eissa, his artisan assistant (you’ll get to know why I call him that) and two umbrellas.

Off we go to the land of absolute amazement and awe.

 

Where to stay

Generally, the accommodation prices in stone town are higher and not with the same value for money that we got at Jambiani; the hotels and rooms didn’t seem as authentic as they were in the village. Out of a few options we checked, I’d recommend Beyt Al Salaam, which also has a great location for walks around the historic city.

Where to eat

Beyt El Chai, at Beyt Al Salaam hotel. What to try there:

• Crab coconut soup
• Potato and leek soup
• Fried octopus salad
• Crab aubergine and avocado mille feuille

6 Degrees South is a must for lunch, dinner, drinks or just a cup of coffee; the view is beautiful and the place is a great escapade for a night out. What to have there:

• Chicken mishkaki
• 200 grams fillet (medium cooked: perfect)
• Grilles octopus
• Drink: watermelon martini

You should certainly get a guide to show you around the historic area and take you through the interestingly complicated history of Zanzibar; two hours that would make a difference to your experience there. While you’re at it, take a look at the different types of doors and what makes each design unique (Indian doors, Arabic doors, and Merchants doors). In Zanzibar, door designs are quite an emphasis especially because of what they symbolize in terms of repelling evil spirits and bad luck.